This formulation was designed to provide broad spectrum (SPF/PFA <3), label SPF 50+ performance. SolaStay® S1 combining with SolaStay® P1 provides very rapid and efficient excited state quenching of Avobenzone, protecting it from photodegradation. HallBrite® BHB contributes to UV filter solubility and enhances product feel. This formulation was subjected to in vitro analysis and delivered SPF ~ 60, PFA ~ 24 and a critical wavelength of 379 nm.
Phase | INCI Name [INN/USAN] (Other Information) | Trade Name | % Wt | Function |
---|---|---|---|---|
A | Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene | SolaStay® S1* | 2.00 | Photostabilizer |
Polyester-25 | SolaStay® P1* | 3.00 | Photostabilizer | |
Butyloctyl Salicylate | HALLBRITE® BHB* | 5.00 | Solvent | |
Ethylhexyl Salicylate [Octisalate] | 5.00 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | ||
Homosalate [Homosalate] | 10.00 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | ||
B | Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane [Avobenzone] | 3.00 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | |
C | VP/Eicosene Copolymer | 1.00 | Film Former | |
Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate | OLIVEM® 1000 | 3.00 | Self-Emulsifier / Liquid Crystal Maker | |
Ceteareth-6 Olivate | OLIVEM® 800 | 3.00 | Emulsifier | |
D | Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer (hollow spherical, 325 nm) | 4.00 | SPF Booster | |
E | Water (Aqua) (deionized) | up to 100 | Volatile Carrier | |
Glycerin | 3.00 | Humectant | ||
Disodium EDTA | 0.05 | Chelating Agent | ||
Xanthan Gum (pharma grade) | 0.30 | Thickener (Aqueous) | ||
F | Preservative | a.n. | Preservative | |
Cyclopentasiloxane | 3.00 | Feel Modification / Enhancement |
PREPARATIVE PROCEDURE
1 | To a secondary vessel add phase A and start mixing. Add phase B into phase A and heat combined phases to 75°C. |
2 | Add phase C into phase AB with mixing. After all dissolved, add phase D into phase ABC and mix well. |
3 | To the main vessel add the first two ingredients of phase E, start mixing, and add the next two ingredients, in order. |
4 | Continue mixing phase E until fully incorporated and then start heating to 75°C. |
5 | When both phases are homogeneous and at their designated temperatures, slowly add the oil phase ABCD to the water phase E with prop mixing for 2 minutes. |
6 | Homogenize ABCDE for 3 minutes, resume prop mixing, start cooling, and add phase F when below 50°C. |
7 | Continue mixing until at room temperature. Replace any water lost to evaporation and mix until smooth. |
PRODUCT CHARACTERISTICS (25°C)
Appearance | Off-white to pale yellow lotion |
Viscosity (Brk, RVDV-II, T-D, 20 rpm, after 24 h at room temperature; mPa·s) | 1800 - 3000 |
pH | 5.5 - 6.5 |
*Patented and Patent Pending
The information presented herein is believed to be accurate and reliable, but no warranty or guarantee, expressed or implied, is made regarding the information or the performance of any product. Further, nothing contained herein shall be taken as any inducement or recommendation to use, manufacture or sell that may infringe any patents or any other proprietary rights now or hereafter in existence, nor to imply compliance with any regulatory requirements
The Hallstar Company - 120 South Riverside Plaza Suite 1620 - Chicago, IL 60606-3911 USA hallstarbeauty.com